Planning Your Layout and Spacing
A successful spigot installation begins with a detailed layout plan. You must determine exactly where each glass panel will sit and where the spigots will be positioned to support them. Generally, each glass panel requires at least two spigots. For panels longer than 1500mm, a third spigot may be necessary. Ensure you leave a 10mm to 20mm gap between panels to allow for glass expansion and structural movement.
Marking and Pre-Drilling the Substrate
Once your layout is mapped out, mark the bolt holes for base-plated spigots or the center point for core-drilled models. Use a string line or a laser level to ensure all spigots are in a perfectly straight line. For concrete installations, use a high-quality hammer drill or a core-drill bit. For wooden decks, ensure you are drilling into the structural joists, not just the surface decking boards, as the deck boards alone cannot support the weight.
Securing Base-Plated Spigots
If you are using base-plated spigots, place the spigot over your marks and drive your stainless steel lag bolts or concrete anchors. Tighten them in a “cross pattern” to ensure even pressure. Before fully torquing the bolts, use a level to check that the spigot is standing perfectly upright. If the floor is uneven, you may need to use thin stainless steel shims underneath the base plate to get it perfectly plumb. buy now
Grouting Core-Drilled Spigots
For core-drilled installations, the process is slightly different. Place the spigots into the drilled holes and use a jig or a support frame to hold them perfectly level and aligned. Once positioned, pour a non-shrink, high-strength structural grout into the hole. Wipe away any excess grout immediately from the surface of the floor and the spigot. Allow the grout to cure completely—usually 24 hours—before attempting to install the glass.
Preparing the Glass Panels
Before lifting the glass into the spigots, ensure the panels are clean and free of oils. Glass for railings is extremely heavy, so use high-quality glass suction cups and have at least two people handling each panel. Check that the rubber gaskets are correctly seated inside the spigots. These gaskets are vital as they prevent the glass from making direct contact with the metal, which would cause the tempered glass to shatter.
Inserting and Leveling the Glass
Carefully lower the glass panel into the slots of the spigots. Do not let the glass hit the bottom of the metal slot too hard. Once the glass is in, use a long level across the top edge of the panel. If the panel is leaning, use the internal adjustment screws (if available in your spigot model) to tilt the glass until it is perfectly vertical. This precision is what separates a DIY-looking job from a professional architectural installation.
Tightening the Friction Plates
Once the glass is level and aligned with the neighboring panels, tighten the friction screws on the side of the spigots. Use a manual hex key to tighten them firmly. You want enough pressure to prevent the glass from moving, but avoid using an impact driver, which can apply too much force and damage the hardware or the glass. After tightening, give the glass a firm “shake test” to ensure there is no wobbling.
Final Touches and Dress Covers
The final step is to slide the “dress covers” or “base covers” down over the spigots. These covers hide the bolts and base plates, providing a sleek, finished appearance. Clean the glass and the stainless steel with a specialized cleaner to remove any fingerprints or construction dust. Apply a bead of clear silicone around the base of the cover if you want to prevent water from sitting underneath the plate, ensuring a long-lasting and rust-free installation.
